Monday, January 28, 2013

Salt Preserved Lemons


A mix of black, green and red peppercorns
and some Turkish Bay Leaves
Pickled, or preserved lemons are a staple in North Africa and the Middle East.  The lemons are used as an ingredient in all kinds of dishes, or as a treat by themselves. They take about a month to peak in flavor, so you need to plan ahead if you want to use them for a specific dish. There are many variations of spices that can be used. Moroccans add cinnamon sticks, coriander or chili; Egyptians use Nigella seeds, and I've seen lemons preserved with star anise and fennel. Purists don't add any spice at all and just enjoy the natural flavor of the salt and lemon.

I am making a double batch of these lemons because I plan to use them for everything. I went with a simple bay leaf and peppercorn mix. (I find that when preserved in cinnamon or other strong flavors, it doesn't pair as well with fish.)  Feel free to halve the recipe for one quart-sized jar (6 lemons).

I used Meyer Lemons, which have a delicate lemon flavor and are used a lot in desserts. They are smaller lemons and their rinds absorb the flavor of the salt and spices really well. If you can't get your hands on Meyer lemons, any lemons will do. If you have lemons with particularly thick rinds, you may want to quickly blanch them first.








For my double batch I used:
A dozen Meyer Lemons
Extra lemon juice (8-10 lemons)*
1-2 cups Kosher salt
4 bay leaves
1 tsp peppercorns

To start off, wash and scrub your hands and the lemons and sterilize your jars. Because the lemons will spend the first week of their journey at room temperature, you want to avoid any bacteria contamination.

Cut the stems off the lemon tips and "almost" quarter the lemons the long way, meaning, start to quarter them and stop about 1/2 inch from the bottom, so they look like flowers.

Using your [clean] fingers, rub about 2 teaspoons of salt in each lemon, making sure to get all the openings.




Squish the lemons into your jars and add 2 bay leaves and 1/2 tsp peppercorns per jar (or whatever spice you plan to use.) Cover the lemons completely with lemon juice.

*This is where I cheat. Meyer lemons are NOT CHEAP. So for the extra lemon juice to cover the lemons, I buy about 10 cheaper lemons and use that for the extra juice. The real reason for the Meyers is the rind, so the juice is less important.




Don't forget to label and date your jars so you know when they are ready! The rule of thumb is to let them sit about a week at room temperature. During this time, shake them up a bit, even turn them upside down, just don't open them. After a week, put them in the fridge. They will be ready in a month and they will keep anywhere from 6 months to a year.

Once they are ready, you serve them cut up and add them to a nice mix of olives and pickled treats for cocktail hour.

Once you have this awesome ingredient, play with some recipes. Add them into your favorite dishes for a kicked-up lemon flavor. Here are some fun ones to try:

Fettuccine with Preserved Lemon and Roasted Garlic

Grilled Wild Salmon with Preserved Lemon Relish

Chicken Braised with Preserved Lemons and Cinnamon

Moroccan Lamb Stew with Preserved Lemons





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